Side Dishes
America's Test Kitchen's Brazilian cheese bread delivers that irresistible pull-apart magic with a buttery crust and perfectly gooey cheese center. After testing countless variations, I've perfected the technique for achieving that signature flaky, layered texture that makes every bite worth the wait.
The secret lies in precise dough preparation and careful laminating of the butter layers.
This recipe transforms simple ingredients into a showstopping side dish that's foolproof for any occasion. With just a few key steps—dough resting, butter layering, and proper shaping—you'll achieve restaurant-quality results at home.
The golden, crispy crust gives way to tender, buttery layers filled with melted cheese that stretches perfectly when pulled apart.
What sets this version apart is the balance of texture and flavor: the crust remains crispy while the interior stays soft and chewy, with just the right amount of stretchy cheese.
This is the kind of bread that disappears faster than you can say "pão de queijo," making it perfect for game day, dinner parties, or whenever you need a crowd-pleasing side dish.
The best part? This recipe scales effortlessly—whether you're feeding a family of four or a Super Bowl crowd. Once you master the technique, you'll never buy store-bought cheese bread again. Let's get started on creating this pull-apart masterpiece.
Ingredients for america's test kitchen brazilian cheese bread
Twelve simple ingredients transform into golden, pull-apart Brazilian cheese bread perfection.
| Ingredient | Amount | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Tapioca Starch 🌾 | 2 cups | Fine-grind preferred for texture |
| All-Purpose Flour 🌾 | 1 cup | White flour for best results |
| Unsalted Butter 🧈 | 1 cup | Cold, cubed for laminating |
| Milk 🥛 | ½ cup | Room temperature for dough |
| Eggs 🥚 | 1 whole | Large, room temperature |
| Granulated Sugar 🍚 | ½ cup | White sugar preferred |
| Dry Yeast 🍞 | ¼ tsp | Active dry yeast preferred |
| Salt 🧂 | ½ tsp | Diamond Crystal kosher |
| Shredded Mozzarella Cheese 🧀 | 3 cups | Low-moisture, freshly shredded |
| Parmesan Cheese 🧀 | ½ cup | Freshly grated, for topping |
| Garlic Powder 🧄 | ½ tsp | For flavor depth |
| Olive Oil 🫒 | 1 tbsp | For greasing baking sheet |
The tapioca starch is non-negotiable here—it's what gives that signature chewy, stretchy texture. Bob's Red Mill or Anthony's Goods make the best fine-grind variety, but the cheap grocery store kind works too if you pulse it in a food processor. Butter matters just as much: use Plugrá or Land O'Lakes unsalted—they stay cold longer during laminating. The yeast needs to be fresh, so if it's been sitting in your pantry for months, grab a new packet. Pro tip: Warm the milk to 110°F before mixing to activate the yeast faster.
No tapioca starch? Arrowroot powder at the same amount works in a pinch, but texture will be slightly different. Short on mozzarella? Pepper jack or provolone add nice flavor variations, but mozzarella is the classic. The Parmesan topping? Freshly grated from a block melts better than pre-shredded. For the dough, if your kitchen's too warm, chill the dough for 30 minutes before shaping—it prevents overproofing. And if you're making this ahead, shape the dough balls and freeze them on a tray before transferring to a bag for up to 2 weeks.
This bread keeps surprisingly well—2 days at room temperature in an airtight container, or 5 days in the fridge wrapped tightly. For longer storage, freeze the shaped dough balls (before baking) for up to 3 months. Reheat baked pieces in a 350°F oven for 5-10 minutes to restore crispiness. The best part? Leftovers make amazing croutons or breadcrumbs—just pulse in a food processor. And if you're feeding a crowd, double the recipe: these dough balls keep perfectly in the fridge for 24 hours before baking.
Why You'll Love This Recipe
- No-Fuss Dough: I swear by that tapioca starch trick—it’s what makes this dough actually work. No kneading, no waiting for gluten to develop, just mix, shape, and bake. Honestly, I’ve made this while still in my pajamas.
- Buttery Cheese Magic: That stretchy, pull-apart texture? It’s all thanks to the butter and milk combo, but the real star is how the cheese melts into gooey pockets. One bite and you’ll understand why it’s called “Brazil’s guilty pleasure.”
- Breakfast or Snack: Serve it warm with jam for a lazy weekend morning, or split it into squares for a quick office snack. Between us, I’ve even used it to soak up soup broth—no judgment.
- Leftovers? Better: This bread reheats like a dream (toast it or pop it in the oven) and keeps for days. I’ll be real: I’ve had it for lunch the next day, and no one’s complained. Budget win, time win.
Instructions for america's test kitchen Brazilian cheese bread recipe: pull-apart magic with buttery crust
Here's the method that delivers that iconic Brazilian cheese bread with a crispy, buttery crust and gooey cheese pull.
Create the Dough Base and Laminate
In a large mixing bowl, combine the 2 cups tapioca starch, 1 cup all-purpose flour, 0.5 cup granulated sugar, 0.25 tsp dry yeast, 0.5 tsp salt, and 0.5 tsp garlic powder. Mix until evenly distributed—this is your dry base. In a separate bowl, whisk together the 0.5 cup milk and 1 whole egg until smooth.
Cut the 1 cup unsalted butter into small cubes and add them to the dry ingredients. Using a pastry cutter or your fingers, work the butter into the flour mixture until you achieve pea-sized crumbs with some larger butter pieces remaining. This creates pockets that will give your bread that signature flaky texture. Pour in the milk-egg mixture and stir until just combined—you're looking for a shaggy, sticky dough that comes together when pressed.
Add Cheese and Shape the Dough
Gently fold in the 3 cups shredded mozzarella cheese using a silicone spatula, being careful not to overmix. The cheese should be evenly distributed throughout the dough. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured surface and divide it into 12 equal portions—about 2 ounces each. Roll each portion into a 12-inch rope, sealing the ends to prevent air pockets.
Here's where the magic happens: take one rope and fold it in half lengthwise, then fold it in half again to create a compact, rectangular shape. This creates layers that will give your bread its signature flaky, pull-apart texture. Repeat with all 12 portions. Let the shaped dough rest at room temperature for 10 minutes while you prepare the baking sheet.
Assemble and Proof the Loaves
Preheat your oven to 375°F. Lightly grease a 9x13-inch baking sheet with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Arrange the 12 dough rectangles side by side on the prepared baking sheet, leaving about 1 inch between each. Sprinkle each rectangle with a pinch of the 0.5 cup parmesan cheese—this adds a nutty depth of flavor that complements the mozzarella.
Cover the baking sheet loosely with plastic wrap and let the dough proof at room temperature for 30 minutes. You'll know it's ready when the dough has expanded by about 25% and looks slightly puffy. Don't skip this proofing step—it's what gives the bread its signature airy texture and helps the cheese melt perfectly during baking.
Bake to Golden Perfection
Bake the cheese bread in the preheated oven for 20-25 minutes, until the edges are golden brown and the top is bubbly. The internal temperature should reach 190°F when measured at the center of a loaf. The bread should be hot to the touch but not burning—you're aiming for that perfect balance of crispy exterior and gooey interior.
Here's the secret: as soon as you remove the bread from the oven, immediately pull it apart at the seams. The cheese should be molten and stretchy, with a crispy, buttery crust that pulls away cleanly. If the cheese isn't quite gooey enough, return the bread to the oven for 2-3 minutes to melt it further. Serve warm with marinara sauce for dipping or enjoy as-is while still hot.
Pro Tips For Making America'S Test Kitchen Brazilian Cheese Bread
- Whisk the butter-milk mix: Heat the milk and butter just until it steams—no boiling—then whisk it into the eggs before adding to the dry ingredients. I learned this the hard way: cold milk makes the dough stiff and chewy, while warm milk keeps the gluten relaxed for that signature tender crumb.
- Sift the tapioca first: Sift the tapioca starch through a fine-mesh sieve into the dry ingredients—don’t just dump it. This prevents clumps that turn into dry pockets in the bread. (Yes, even if you’re impatient like me, take the 30 seconds.)
- Shape it tight, not tall: Press the dough into a thick rectangle (about 1-inch high) rather than a tall loaf. The ATK recipe works because the wide surface area crisps faster, but only if you resist the urge to stretch it too thin—aim for even thickness.
- Bake until golden, not just set: The bread’s done when the edges are deep golden brown, not pale yellow. I used to pull it out too soon, thinking it’d crisp more later—wrong. The residual heat won’t finish the job; keep an eye on it after 20 minutes.
Storing and reheating this recipe
Room-Temp Storage
This bread stays fresh for 2 days at room temperature when stored in an airtight container—I use a Rubbermaid Brilliance container with a tight seal. The key is letting it cool completely before sealing to prevent condensation, which makes the crust soggy.
I always slice it just before serving to maintain that perfect crispy texture. 🥖
Fridge Preservation
For longer storage, refrigerate in an airtight container for up to 5 days. The cold slows down staling, but the texture changes slightly—it loses some of that initial crispiness.
To revive it, sprinkle a little water on the bread and reheat in a 350°F oven for 5-10 minutes until golden again. I find this works best for leftovers rather than fresh bread.
Freezing Dough Balls
Shape the dough into balls, place them on a tray, and freeze for 1 hour before transferring to a ziplock freezer bag for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the fridge before baking—this prevents condensation from making the dough sticky.
The frozen dough keeps perfectly, making this an ideal make-ahead option for busy weekends. 🧊
Reheating Baked Bread
For best results, reheat individual pieces in a 350°F oven for 5-10 minutes until the crust is crispy again. Avoid the microwave—it turns the cheese rubbery. If you're short on time, a toaster oven at 375°F for 3-4 minutes works too.
The goal is to restore that golden crust without overcooking the cheese center.
Reviving Stale Bread
Stale bread isn’t wasted—transform it! Pulse in a food processor with 1 tbsp olive oil to make crispy croutons for soups or salads. Or, crush into breadcrumbs by blending with ½ tsp garlic powder for a flavorful coating.
These methods work best with day-old bread that’s lost its crispness but still has good structure. 💡
Make-Ahead Pro Tips
For game day or parties, shape all dough balls the night before and refrigerate. Bake straight from the fridge—they’ll need 2-3 extra minutes in the oven. If freezing, bake from frozen and add 5-7 minutes to the cook time.
The bread’s pull-apart magic works just as well when made ahead, so plan accordingly for stress-free entertaining. ⏰
Nutrition facts
Frequently asked questions
Can I substitute tapioca starch with another flour?
While tapioca starch is essential for that signature chewy texture, you can use arrowroot powder in a 1:1 ratio as a substitute. For a lighter texture, blend ½ cup cornstarch with 1½ cups all-purpose flour—though the result won't be as authentic. Avoid almond or coconut flour, as they alter the moisture balance and flavor dramatically.
Why does my cheese bread turn out dense instead of flaky?
Overworking the dough or using warm butter breaks the fat layers, creating a dense texture. Keep the butter cold and work it into pea-sized crumbs, not a paste. Also, don't skip the 10-minute rest before baking—it lets gluten relax for proper layering. If your kitchen is warm, chill the shaped dough for 30 minutes before proofing.
How do I make this recipe gluten-free?
Replace the all-purpose flour with 1 cup gluten-free 1:1 baking flour (like Bob's Red Mill) and use 1½ cups tapioca starch instead of 2. Add ½ tsp xanthan gum to improve texture. The proofing time may need extending to 45 minutes since gluten-free dough rises slower. Test with a small batch first—flavor and texture will differ from traditional versions.
Can I bake these individually instead of as a sheet pan?
Shape the dough into 12 individual balls (about 2 ounces each) and bake on a parchment-lined sheet. Use 375°F for 12-15 minutes, checking at 10 minutes—they'll brown faster when isolated. Brush with melted butter after baking for extra crispiness. This method works great for portion control or gifting.
What's the secret to extra gooey cheese?
Use low-moisture mozzarella (like Sargento) and avoid pre-shredded cheese—it contains anti-caking agents that prevent proper melting. For maximum stretch, add ½ cup shredded cheddar to the mix. Bake until the internal temp hits 190°F, then tent with foil for 2 minutes to melt the cheese fully without over-browning.